edelrid giga jul review
As mentioned in the review, we didn't really test it that much in guide mode mainly because I haven't really found any need of guide mode in the climbing I have been doing. In brake assist mode, feeding slack requires learning a different technique. That said, if paired with ropes that are fresh and slippery, it may be possible for a little bit of rope to slip through the device, simply requiring you to grip a little firmer. In this case you usually only take the rope in and having it on brake assist is actually a bonus, especially if your following climber needs a tight rope since you can do this easily without having to sustain tension with your brake hand. The performance of the Giga Jul for lowering and rappelling is once again dependent on which mode you are using. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. Visually the Giga Jul is similar in size, or slightly bigger, to a lot of guide plates that are now available - but with a larger thumb loop. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Of note is that the slider bar must be slid into manual mode for this usage, and the thumb loop points toward the wall, which is the opposite of the orientation used by the Mega Jul, but is ultimately more intuitive. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Well it still functions but it doesn't really offer any brake assist and taking in the rope is awkward since taking in is now where the brake assist is being applied. The most versatile ever belay device. Once in manual mode you basically have a standard belay device similar to many on the market. If there's a big weight difference between lead climber and belayer, the Edelrid Ohm offers a genuine safety gain. Despite a rocky start, Edelrid’s Mega Jul is now my belay device of choice for all alpine and multi-pitch rock climbing. James Thomson started this discussion 8 weeks ago. Sport Climbing with a Single Rope Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. VIDEO from Weigh My Rack: We haven't used it much in the alpine guide mode which isn't a common use in the UK - although we will look at that briefly in this review. Whether you are sport climbing, trad climbing, abseiling or using it as a guide plate, it needs to be used in different ways - but it is designed to work well for all of them. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. Overall, the Mega Jul is a cleverly designed belay device that does things that similar looking devices do not, whilst offering more security. Top Rope Belay . Rappelling laps with the Giga Jul to test all of the different ways and modes of rappelling to decide which works the best. In manual mode one must firmly lock off the brake line in a downward direction, and this takes a bit more effort. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. Lowering a climber in assist mode requires keeping upward pressure on the thumb loop, or using a separate carabiner threaded through the release hole on the back for leverage, and takes a bit of effort and is also fairly jerky. Let us know! The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is our favorite device for multi-pitching because it has three different modes cleverly built into one small, affordable, and simple device. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. With the Giga Jul, this need disappears, and this level of versatility is what makes it an easy choice for our Top Pick award for Multi-Pitching. For the most part, you would only ever abseil in manual mode. We tried it out and discovered that guide mode only works in manual mode - the rope totally locks in brake assist mode. On our independent scale the Giga Jul weighted 4.3 ounces, which is pretty light, but a fair bit heavier than comparable devices we compared it against. In manual mode, the device functions just like a standard tube and has some added friction grooves that help you catch and hold a falling climber. Anytime two ropes are running over each other, as they are in this setup, there is going to be a lot of friction, adding fatigue to your shoulders and elbows as the day goes on. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. In this mode, it works much like the other tube-style auto-block devices, and while it is very effective at locking off the seconders rope, there is a fair amount of friction built into the system. The Giga Jul is a smart little belay device from Edelrid that can be used as an assisted braking device or a standard one at the flick of a lever. An alternative method is to lower your braking hand on the trailing rope and then use your other upper hand to tip the device up to release. This just illustrates the versatility of the device. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The last thing you want is a rope locking when you don't want it to. You can ab the normal way with a prussik if you want but the locking mode with an additional krab as a handle works great. These other two devices haven't been widely adopted in UK trad for different reasons so there is a gap here for something that gives the versatility of a manual belay device, with the option to have assisted brake mode if required, while still being a reasonable size and weight on your harness. Those who prefer the camming style brake assist of the GriGri, CAMP Matik, Mad Rock Lifeguard, Edelrid Eddy etc would need to change their belay style since it is a different action. It is slightly complex to use initially but you quickly get used to it with a little practice. Overall for trad climbing the Giga Jul in manual mode is as efficient as any device on the market. The added toggle switch adds a little bit of weight, but the main difference is in the stainless steel inserts in high wear areas, that ensure a longer life span for the Giga Jul. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. So overall for sport climbing, operation is similar to a lot of devices on the market that give brake assist based on trapping the rope between the crab and the device. Fast despatch as standard, next day delivery available. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. We have used it for sport climbing, trad climbing and abseiling, so those are the main areas we will focus on here. For more info on how to use it see edelrid.de. We liked using the second carabiner best because it mimics the lowering handle found on most active assist devices. Will we love the update as much as we loved the original? The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. It is comparable to the Salewa Ergo, Mammut Smart, Black Diamond ATC Pilot type of device but not quite as smooth as the Climbing Technology Click-up. The Mega Jul from Edelrid is considered a "passive" assisted braking belay device. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. M (manual) at the top, A (assist) at the bottom, as indicated by the arrows. A pair of 60m Flycatchers weighs just over 9 lbs.—about the same as one 10mm. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - image-1600550567017.JPG - image-1600550603040.JPG. In manual mode though it works perfectly as any guide mode device would do and is probably slightly better than using the device set up for conventional brake assist if the fixed belay is high. All rights reserved. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. So it looks like they're fixed the problem with the megajul that you need to re-feed the ropes to switch between manual and guide mode - great. Thanks to a sliding mechanism the Giga Jul can be switched between regular and assisted braking mode. The Edelrid HMS Strike is a strong keylock screwgate carabiner with a compact body and low weight. Each mode has a corresponding diagram on either side of the device to indicate the direction the rope should be loaded. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. I did use the Mega Jul and found it awkward for abseiling, particularly if you thread it the brake assist way. Lowering. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the latest in a long line of belay devices under the Jul label. The design is also clever in that it ensures that you do always have your brake hand on the rope in the correct position. Lead or top-rope belaying with the Giga Jul can be done in either assisted braking or manual mode. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. We used it on a 9.8mm Sterling Velocity single rope, and an 8.5mm triple-rated Beal Opera Dry. That said, we like it as an option in case we don't have a prussik for backup. Take some sandwiches and popcorn, you are gonna be there a while. Not a huge problem but there is a gap then as you slip your hand back up the rope into the thumb position. The lighter auto-block devices don't have that and are sure to wear out a bit quicker, so the added weight comes with the benefit of increased durability. The Revo makes belaying simple, safe and more intuitive. The first bi-directional belay device with a backup. See this product at the Joe Brown - Snowdonia shop. However, owing to the complex nature of the different modes, this is not totally straightforward to get right and takes a bit of getting used to. Buy Edelrid - Giga Jul now at Dick's Climbing. Its increased durability also adds to the value. Beal ORIENT EXPRESS is a unidirectional screw locking karabiner designed for use with belay plates where the ropes pass through the karabiner. While it does cost a fair bit more than standard auto-block devices, we think the added expense is worth it, considering you also get assisted braking. The value of this device is due largely to the fact that you can use it in three different modes. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Switching between different belay modes, such as assisted braking or "manual," is performed simply by moving a central slider bar within the device to one side or the other, and then loading the rope correctly for that orientation. In the Alps though it is more common. Most usually this will be with the device in brake assist mode. For this reason you are rarely likely to use it when belaying a leader; however bringing up a second is a different matter. The idea of guide mode is that it turns a conventional belay device into a brake assist device for bringing up climbers following a pitch - like a 'guide' would do - however the Giga Jul already has a brake assist mode so is it a slightly superfluous function of the device? There was nothing noticeably better or worse about using this device compared to say a Black Diamond ATC or a Mammut Smart. It is slightly bigger than some other devices and has the thumb loop which is redundant in the manual mode. The Edelrid Giga Jul belay device, MSRP: $50 Edelrid’s new Giga Jul looks deceptively like your standard two-tube device. The advantage of doing it this way is that you can retain better control with your braking hand. Rope diameter: 7.1 - 10mm The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. Rappelling in manual mode is by far the easiest and smoothest, although we like that we can rappel in assist mode if we don't have a backup on our harness and want one. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. I guess there must be a lot of people at the Verdon who don't know what they're doing then which sounds kinda of terrifying! Rappelling in assisted braking mode, as we are here, is not our favorite because holding the thumb loop upward in the right place is tiring and hard to stay in the sweet spot without jerking. On the thinner 8.5mm when used as a single, there was a little slippage when locking but nothing to raise concern. The Giga Jul claims to work on ropes from 7.1mm to 10mm. We got our hands on the Giga Jul late in 2018 and have been using it since, both indoors and out. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a super versatile belay device that offers both a standard tuber device and an assisted braking device in one. I've done the majority of my climbing for the last 5 years I guess now with a Mega Jul, including lots of abseiling. As I've already implied, one of the main problems with brake assist belay devices is that you don't always want brake assist. Compared to assisted braking modes and devices, this way of belaying requires the most effort and sustained gripping of the brake strand. In September Black Diamond and Visit Innsbruck teamed up to invite UKClimbing, among others, to the World Youth Championships. Edelrid GigaJul Belay Device 5063-427. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. This makes paying out a two-handed procedure since you have to use the thumb loop to hold the back of the device upright to allow free feed of the rope. Edelrid Mega Jul Field test review of the new Edelrid Mega Jul belay device, a serious contender for a “semi-auto” device. Shown here in manual mode, it works just like a standard tube style device. © UKClimbing Limited. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. It is also possible to double rope trad climb with the Giga Jul in brake assist mode. The Mega Jul Sport is a tube-style device that relies on its shape to catch the rope in the event of a fall, so it has no moving parts. Shown here for size comparison, the Giga Jul on the left against the BD ATC Guide on the right, which is a bit smaller, and a fair bit lighter, but doesn't have the option of being used in assisted braking mode, and also doesn't have stainless steel inserts for greater longevity. The most versatile ever belay device. As the owner of this website, I tracked down special deals for some products or services mentioned herein. Once the rope is loaded, you cannot switch between types of belay style, which is to be expected. So where does the Giga Jul fit into the range? It can also be hung off the anchor to belay a second in auto-block mode. So whilst brake assist devices have virtually taken over for most single rope sport climbing scenarios, hardly anyone uses them for trad climbing. Edelrid Mega Jul Sport Review. It also eliminates much of the non-intuitive setup found in the Mega Jul; as long as you pay careful attention to the pictorial diagrams on the side of the device and be sure to load it correctly, the Giga Jul is easy and intuitive to use. The most versatile ever belay device. We got to use the giga jul when belaying a trad leader in assisted mode, a top rope climber in assisted mode (lower as well), belaying a second from above, and lowering a second from above. However, how binary is the locking in guide mode when you need to release the rope - is it like most other guide mode belay devices in being either locked or not, or can you do a more gradual release like the DMM Pivot? As part of the REI Co-op family, we're dedicated to making websites and mobile apps that help outdoor enthusiasts connect, share information and get out into the places they love to play. Abseil There is a right and a wrong way to thread the device but, as long as you are in manual mode, then both will work safely. ProView – Edelrid Giga Jul February 17, 2020 Climbing, ProView Gear Reviews Patrick Betts I used the Giga Jul over the last two months while guiding six days a week: from climbing to canyoneering, single pitch, multi-pitch and hundreds of meters of rappelling; this device hung on my harness and proved itself versatile and robust. Try and pull the rope through the device without holding the trailing rope and it will pretty much lock. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. Perfect for abbing to remove gear for example. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. These fed well and gave good locking when required without being a total lock, including in brake assist mode. In terms of function, we found that while there is less friction that the belayer must overcome than with the Mega Jul, there is still a whole lot more than with active assist belay devices. How can we improve GearLab? It is a bit fussy to use at first and requires a considered and experienced approach, but once you get the hang of it the Mega Jul works rather well and is particularly versatile. All of the testers who used this device said that they agreed it was less jerky and "grabby" than the similar Mega Jul, which is a good thing. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. The Giga Jul is much better for this in fact it is as good as any standard tuber-style belay device on the market. Set up in auto-block mode hanging directly off the anchor requires using the additional carabiner hole at the top of the device, and loading the device the same as you would for manual mode. While it takes a few pitches to learn and get completely used to, soon enough, this technique becomes pretty simple. In manual mode, again, it … For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Started: 8 weeks ago on Sat 19th Sep 2020 World . With a bit of practice this can be relatively easy but perhaps not as smooth as some single rope brake assist devices on the market. The range is now exclusively assisted-braking only, hence the original Jul is no longer available. To use in assisted brake mode the slider is moved to the 'top' of the plate, while the thumb loop allows for smooth playing out when belaying a leader. We also found that if we belayed with a carabiner that wasn't round, such as the I-beam stock Black Diamond Vaporlock Magnetron, there was way more friction and rope didn't pay out smoothly at all, so be sure to pair it with a round stock pear-shaped HMS carabiner. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. We found that round stock pear biners (HMS) work best, as they provide the least friction so you can easily pay out slack. Although you must still hold onto the brake strand, the braking assist does most of the work, effectively locking the device when the climber falls, and easily holding their weight as they rest, requiring minimal sustained gripping or effort on the belayer's part. However, we did notice that when you pull some slack back in through the device, you take your thumb out of the loop to do so, and then must look down, away from your climber, to find the thumb loop once again. The ultimate "bite" depends on the rope and carabiner you pair the Giga Jul with. PRODUCT INFORMATION. Name: Mega Jul Sport … If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. In both manual and assisted brake mode the device performed as expected. Giga Jul Technical Specifications: Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. Be sure to read the instructions so you understand how to properly load the device. The switch between modes is simple - just slide the moveable bar on the device from one end to the other indicated by text and arrows on the device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Using with an Edelrid Strike. One must loop their thumb through a special thumb loop, and then hold this loop up and out, away from the carabiner, to prevent the device from locking and keep the rope feeding smoothly. Using a, I-beam carabiner like the one shown here added significant friction to the system, making it much harder to pull out the needed slack quickly. The Edelrid Giga Jul is an innovative and increadibly versatile belay device. While the Mega Jul introduced several cool and unique features, the fact is that most people don't enjoy using it because it is too small and therefore has way too much friction from the rope unavoidably built into its use, making it effortful and annoying compared to the competition. We like how the device is ambidextrous, so lefties can use it just as easily as righties. It's light, it offers loads of grip for secure belaying, and it works smoothly on a range of rope diameters - what's not to like? A Hybrid mix of aluminium and steel keeps the Giga Jul light and robust. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. The Giga Jul has a specific metal carabiner loop so that it can be clipped directly to the anchor for belaying up a second in auto-block mode. The belay technique is similar to any other tube-style device, but when feeding slack, the belayer must hold the thumb loop so the rope will run through the device without locking up. The device has two rope slots, making it usable with twin or double ropes, and ensuring that you can rappel double ropes. Rappelling in assist mode is similarly effortful and jerky, and we preferred not to do it. This doesn't mean that you can belay without your brake hand but it does indicate how sensitive the locking system is. A slider bar along the top of the device must be positioned all the way on either end, denoting either manual or assisted mode, and then the rope must be loaded into the device in the correct manner depending on the mode, which is different for each. The main difference is the movable bar in the twin rope slots which enables you to switch between the two modes. With an i ntelligent hybrid design, the Edelrid Giga Jul can either be used in guide mode or assisted guide mode, which offers a brake boost for catching falls. The most versatile ever belay device. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments. The only circumstances you might do this is if you were stripping a pitch of gear or getting in position for some photography but these are advanced techniques that would need some practice. Starting with the very basic single rope sport Jul device, various superlatives have been added to the name as more technical devices were developed. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode requires learning a new technique. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Assisted braking belay devices help catch a leader fall by doing some of the braking work for you. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Basic sport climbing holding position with the thumb in the thumb loop, Fast feed position with the thumb pulling upwards on the thumb loop, Locked for fall or lowering is natural with the hand already in position through the thumb loop, Alternative method for lowering keeping the brake hand lower and tilting the device with your other hand to give better control, Double rope use in locked position with the thumb loop upwards and out of the way, Independent feed of the ropes for technical belaying while trad climbing. Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device. I have tried this in a simulated set up and it does function as expected although getting the extra crab into place is a little fiddly. As an assisted braking device, the Giga Jul grants greater friction that bites down on the climbing rope when lead climbers fall.